Saturday, April 17, 2010

Building Your Perfect Business Wardrobe

Dressing well for the office shouldn’t add stress to your workday. You just need to know the basics. Here are the essential items to add to your closet—and how to wear them. Follow this guide and you’ll assemble an elegant, easy-to-use wardrobe that’ll take you to the top of your game.


1. The Gray Suit



Think of it as the anchor of your business wardrobe—strong, elegant, and always appropriate, whether you're interviewing for your first job or addressing the shareholders at your last. A gray suit looks sharp and clean with a white, soft blue, or light pink shirt but is versatile enough that it'll go with just about anything. Any shade will do, but we recommend a medium gray, like the one this gentleman is wearing. 
2. The Solid Navy Suit
You can't go wrong here. A navy suit is always a safe, classic choice, and it travels seamlessly from the boardroom to an evening out. It lends itself well to almost any shirt-and-tie combination, but to up the elegance factor, pair it with a crisp white shirt, a dark solid tie, and a pocket square (think Cary Grant). Click on the NEXT button below for the season's best navy suits, in three price points.


3. The Solid Black Suit

It used to be that a black suit wasn't a safe choice for the office, but these days it's a staple. Just make sure yours is cut on the slim side and fits correctly. 






4. The Pin-Striped Navy Suit

A cool classic that exudes confidence. You can anchor it with a solid shirt and tie or get adventurous—like the guy here, who's mixed it with a striped shirt and a striped tie. Just keep the components within one basic-color family and make sure that the stripes of the suit, shirt, and tie aren't too close in scale; one of the patterns should be bold and the other two more muted. 



5. The Khaki Cotton Suit
A business wardrobe might consist mostly of dark suits, but spring and summer give you the chance to lighten up (literally). Do it in style with a khaki cotton suit. Pair it with a solid (blue, white, or pink) shirt and a dark tie for the office, then loosen it up (e.g., lose the tie and socks) for an evening out.





It sounds obvious, but it's not. The most crucial element of a suit is its fit, and not many sales guys understand how a suit should fit or, more specifically, how you want yours to fit. Before you step into a dressing room, get a handle on the various components of a suit.


1) Shoulders:

The suit's shoulders should hug yours. The shoulder pads should not protrude beyond your own shoulders.


2) Chest:

You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining. Conversely, there shouldn't be too much space between the button and your chest—no more than a fist's worth.




3) Length:

When your arms are hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket. However, these days, with shorter suits in style, some jackets reach only about an inch or two beyond the cuff of your suit sleeve.



Think about the style of the suit you're buying. The first thing you need to consider is the number of buttons on the suit. This will determine a good deal about the cut and fit.

The three-button suit became the dominant look in the 1990s; it now seems to be the standard young man's choice. Instead of opting for one of those high-cut versions, look for one with a roll-over lapel—one in which you button the middle button, encouraging the soft lapel to roll over the top button.
For years the two-button suit was the go-to conservative, Capitol Hill getup. Now every fashion label imaginable is designing two-button suits, except they're making them more streamlined and modern. This cut is what's most in style right now—and it's the most versatile, looking good on almost every body type.
If you're looking for something rakish, a bit more high-style, try a one-button suit. It's not for everyone, but if you can pull it off, it's a sleek look.
Think about the vents on the back of the suit jacket.


center vent is all-purpose; it is both modern and traditional. You can't go wrong.


Side vents are more European, a bit more suave. They also add a little more shape to your suit.
A ventless jacket, by the way, is a definite no. It says you think it's still 1986.

Think about the type of lapel.

notch lapel—what you see on most business suits—is the standard. You're always safe with a notch lapel. Go for one on the narrow side, which will have a more modern, slimming effect.

peak lapel is more old-school and elegant. And now it's enjoying a comeback with high-fashion and business crowds alike. It makes a statement. Just don't get them too wide—you don't want to look like a Sopranosextra.


A tailor can make a good suit great, but he can't work miracles.

Shoulders:

If your suit doesn't fit in the shoulders, it's not going to fit anywhere else. Salesmen will tell you they can reduce or reshape the shoulder pads. Don't listen to them.
Pants:

If the pants are an inch or so too tight or too large in the waist, a tailor can usually fix them. But if it's more than an inch, you're asking for trouble.
Jacket:

A tailor will usually need to alter the length of the sleeves. Insist that you'd like a quarter inch of shirt cuff to show. The sides of a jacket often need tapering so they contour to your torso. And check out the collar: Many times there is a roll in the back of the suit jacket, up near your neck. A good tailor can correct this.

Know these three types. Make sure they fit correctly. And have your suit sleeves tailored so they show a quarter inch of cuff.
1. Single-Button Standard (left)
The most common type of cuff, which you'll find on most moderately priced dress shirts. When fitting properly, it should reach the hinge of your wrist.
2. French (center)
The dressiest, most formal cuff choice. But you don't have to wear flashy cuff links and (after work) a tie with them. Try an open collar and more creative links.
3. Two-Button Barrel (right)
For the guy who wants a shirt with as much flair as his British- or Italian-made suit.


You can't have too many blue, white, or blue-and-white-striped dress shirts in your business wardrobe. They work with everything, but especially with our selection of modern ties. Build on these versatile basics. You can mix and match them at will. That's the key to a perfect business wardrobe.

The right pair of shoes can bring your look together; the wrong pair can wipe out all of your best intentions. Don't blow it when it comes to your feet. And whatever shoes you choose for the office, add toe and heel taps to the soles, and use shoe trees when you're not wearing them. You'll significantly increase the shoes' life span.
Shoes That Work


1. Cap-Toe
You need at least one pair of slim black lace-ups for your business wardrobe. They work with every imaginable suit. Try these—the cap-toe detailing strikes a classic, professional look.
You should also own a pair of brown lace-ups, but when it comes to those, remember this basic rule: Brown shoes work with everything except a black suit.
2. Plain-Toe

If you want something sharper and sleeker, go with a slim plain-toed lace-up. It's dressier than a cap-toe and can be worn with a tuxedo to formal events. But you can also wear it on the weekend with jeans and a blazer.




3. Wingtip

The ultimate business shoe. Its intricate old-school detailing signals maturity and prestige. And don't worry about looking too banker-like—wingtips are back in fashion these days.




4. Loafer

A dressier version of these casual classics adds flair to your wardrobe. In the warmer months, try them with a khaki business suit. And if you're feeling adventurous, go sockless.





Opt for over-the-calf ribbed business socks. You don't want to show any leg when seated. Don't get carried away with bold colors or patterns—keep it classic. And match the color of your socks with your suit, not your shoes.

A cotton pocket square can add a dash of elegance to a business suit. Just keep it simple: Stay away from patterned silk ones, and wear yours square, not puffy or multipeaked. And never buy a matching tie-and-pocket-square set.

You'll need these when wearing a dressy French-cuff shirt. Just choose ones that are tasteful and refined—you don't want to be too flashy. And no, your links don't need to match your watch.



As we've insisted all along, less is more. Nothing should attract a disproportionate amount of attention—you want a clean, balanced, and classic look. All of these timeless watches will help you strike precisely that. They're slim, and they fit right under the cuff of your dress shirt.


No comments:

Post a Comment